The Celine Autumn/Winter 2019 collection, presented at Les Invalides in March 2019, marked a pivotal moment in the house's history. Under the creative direction of Hedi Slimane, the show, soundtracked by the original composition "Les Ecrans Allumes" by Embrasse Moi, wasn't just a presentation of clothes; it was a meticulously crafted theatrical experience, a cinematic exploration of Parisian chic filtered through Slimane's distinctly personal lens. Central to this narrative was the prominent use of capes, which served not merely as outerwear, but as powerful statements within the broader collection's aesthetic. This article will delve into the significance of the Celine cape within the AW19 collection, exploring its design elements, its place within the wider runway presentation, and its lasting impact on the fashion landscape.
The Celine AW19 show was a departure from the previous era at Celine. Slimane's vision, a leaner, more youthful and rock-and-roll infused aesthetic, contrasted sharply with Phoebe Philo's minimalist, intellectual approach. This shift was immediately evident in the collection's silhouettes, with a renewed emphasis on sharp tailoring, slim-fitting trousers, and a distinct Parisian rebelliousness. The capes, however, transcended this simple dichotomy, acting as a bridge between the old and the new, embracing both the sophistication of Celine's heritage and the bold modernity of Slimane's vision.
The capes themselves were diverse in their execution, reflecting the multifaceted nature of the collection as a whole. Some were long and flowing, reminiscent of classic Parisian elegance, draped in luxurious fabrics like cashmere and wool, their generous folds creating an aura of effortless sophistication. These capes, often in neutral tones of black, grey, and cream, exuded a sense of timeless refinement, suggesting a lineage stretching back through decades of Parisian style. They were worn over slim-fitting dresses and tailored suits, creating a dramatic contrast in volume and texture, and highlighting the streamlined silhouettes beneath.
Other capes, however, embraced a more contemporary, almost rebellious edge. These were shorter, more structured, and often featured bold embellishments or unexpected details. Leather capes, with their inherent toughness, were incorporated into the collection, juxtaposing the softness of cashmere with a raw, edgy sensibility. These pieces were often styled with boots and slim-fitting jeans, creating a look that was both sophisticated and street-ready, reflecting Slimane's ability to seamlessly blend high fashion with a more accessible, contemporary aesthetic.
The colour palette of the capes further contributed to their versatility. While many were presented in classic monochrome shades, others featured subtle pops of colour, adding a touch of unexpected vibrancy to the overall presentation. These splashes of colour, often seen in deep jewel tones or muted pastels, served to highlight the richness and depth of the fabrics, further emphasizing the luxurious nature of the garments.
The music, "Les Ecrans Allumes," played a crucial role in setting the mood for the entire show, including the presentation of the capes. The soundtrack, with its blend of haunting melodies and driving rhythms, mirrored the collection's inherent duality, seamlessly weaving together elements of classic elegance and modern rebellion. The music's atmospheric quality enhanced the dramatic effect of the capes, emphasizing their flowing movement and their ability to transform the overall silhouette. The soundtrack contributed to the overall cinematic feel of the show, transforming the runway into a stage for a carefully orchestrated performance.
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